La Rioja - Rioja, España

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Rioja, because of its famous name, is probably one of the best known regions of Spain, which is no mean achievement as it has the smallest population (just 261,000) and, after the Balearics, the smallest area. It owes much of its good fortune to its location in the fertile valley of the Ebro, the foundation of its famous wine industry.

The capital city is Logrono which has good motorway connections to the north, south and west of Spain and within the region.

 

 

Countryside and wildlife

The large and fertile Ebro valley together with the mountains of the Sierras del Sistema Iberica give the region a very varied landscape. This variety supports a diverse fauna, especially some important colonies of raptors. The national reserve of Caza de Cameros testifies to the importance given to wildlife protection.

The best known protected areas include: Parque Natural de la Cebollera, La Sierra de Urbion, la Reserva Natural de los Sotos del Ebro en Alfaro and the Biosphere Reserve in the valleys of Leza, Jubera, Cidacos and Alhama.

 

 

Activities and sport

The variety of Riojan countryside - with its mountains, rivers and protected areas all accessible by roads, tracks and paths through forests with plentiful wildlife - presents good opportunities to enjoy sport in the best of settings.

The mountains of the Sistema Iberica provide for winter sports and for walking and hiking throughout the rest of the year. The main ski station at Valdezcaray, currently being modernised, is a favourite for both locals and visitors.

The reservoir of Gonzalez Lacasa, between El Rasillo and Ortigosa de Cameros welcomes water sports – including canoeing, windsurfing and dinghy sailing, while the wilder waters of the higher reaches of the Iregua and Najerilla rivers challenge the more intrepid canoeist.

The network of walking routes in Rioja is one of the best ways to discover the beauty of the region. The best known are the Camina de Santiago, the Gran Recorrido (GR) 93, the Vias Verdes (green routes) de Cidacos and del Oja and disused railway tracks have some of the best views. The well used mountain paths arrive at 28 summits over 6000ft.

But if you enjoy mountain biking, climbing, pot-holing, hang-gliding, horse riding or the more traditional “hunting and fishing” there is good provision in the countryside of Rioja.

 

 

Heritage

The two most important historical buildings, declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 1997, are the monasteries of de Suso – with its outstanding Moorish decorative details, and de Yuso – with its priceless library.

Other important buildings include: the romanesque monastery of Sant Maria la Real (Najera), the gothic cathedral of Calahorra, cathedral of Santa Maria la Redonda (Logroño), cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, church of Santo Tomas in Haro, San Miguel in Cuzcurrita de Rio Tiron – where there is also a splendid castle – San Miguel in Alfaro and Santa Maria in Navarrete.

A visitor who is interested in traditional art and culture will find much of interest in Rioja. It starts with evidence of neolithic shepherds, then the dolmens of Cameros and Sonsierra, the celtic tribes in the Ebro valley, Roman cities and the collections of Roman, Gothic, Renaissence and Baroque art, temples and open air paintings, castles and fortresses along the frontier with Navarre and Castile, churches with magnificent high altars, slender Baroque spires and simple mountain hermitages. Every trip through the different valleys and places yields a surprisingly rich artistic heritage.

Popular culture – the lifestyles and customs of the people – also give us an account of the past through everyday activities, such as the great migration routes, water mills, oil and wine presses, bread ovens, coal mines and wine labourers’ shelters - all tell us how people lived. As do the traditional crafts and designs which have been adapted to modern requirements.

The visitor will find that many aspects of Riojan art and traditional life have been collected by the regions museums and also by the new interpretation centres which offer presentations on, for example, the ancient herding routes and the wildlife of the Sierra de Cebollera. All of which helps one to understand and enjoy what Rioja has to offer.

 

 

Festivals, traditons and cooking

The festive character of the Riojans follows the seasons and specifically the grape seasons and culminates in the Fiesta de la Vendimia (the grape harvest) and the “battle” of Haro with its carefree use of grapes!

Other festivals have a more sober origen in historical and religious events, such as the pilgrimages (romerias) to local holy places. While others have a wider, and even national appeal, such as the stilt dansers at Anguiano and the “picaos” of San Vincente de la Sonsierra. Some reproduce historical events such as the Cronicas de la Corte Najera and the Milagros del Santo.

There is a tendency for the excellence of Riojan wine to overshadow the whole taste field, but one should not neglect Riojan cooking which puts great store on the quality of its vegetables, especially the peppers of Piquillo. Among meat dishes the most popular is lamb(cordero triunfa) and peaches are the favourite fruit. There are many local sweet dishes but marzipan of the Sierra de Cameros should not be missed. The Sierras also produce some excellent cheeses.

 

 

History

Rioja was occupied in the first century BC by the Celts. The Roman occupation was important particularly for starting the cities of Calahorra, Alfaro and Logrono. Like the rest of the Ebro valley, Rioja fell to the Moors in 714. But in 923 they, in turn, were ousted by Ordoño II king of Leon and Sancho Garces of Navarre.

During the XI and XII centuries Rioja was disputed by the kings of Castile and Navarre and past frequently from one to the other until finally they put the issue to arbitration by Henry II who ruled in favour of Castile.

From 1870s Rioja, like the rest of the Spanish wine industry, gained immensely from the blight of the French vines and by improving both quality and quantity it became the major industry of the region.

More recently as the service sector has developed, especially tourism, the economy has been able to diversify which in turn has produced working and social changes.

 

 

The French way

The deep Jacobean tradition that exists in La Rioja is evident in many places along the region's pilgrimage routes. Leaving Logroño behind, the Camino Francés pilgrimage (The French Way) runs through Navarrete, where the ruins of the old pilgrim's hospital can be found, and Najera, where the old royal court is located. The Monastery of Santa María la Real is also situated in Najera and is noted for its excellent cloister and its former role as a refuge for the pilgrims. A few miles further along the route lies the Monasteries of Suso and Yuso, which have jointly been declared a World Heritage Site. The town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada is the last major stage of the pilgrimage. Its old city walls and the Cathedral of San Salvador are well worth a visit. 

Other important towns and places in the region include Calahorra (capital of Rioja Baja), Alfaro (which neighbours Calahorra and contains the 16th-17th century Collegiate Church of St Michael Arcángel) and Haro (the stately villa that has become the center of Rioja wine production). 

The 'Route of the Dinosaurs' lies to the south of the region, and contains various traces of prehistoric animals.

Another important reason for visiting the region of La Rioja is its rich and varied natural environment. The Sierra de Cebollera Nature Park, in the Los Cameros county, bordering the province of Soria, houses one of the largest collections of glacial relief on the peninsula. 

 

 

Getting there and about

Rioja has good communications with the rest of Spain and beyond. The motorway network (A68) links it to the north and via Bilbao to France, while via Zaragoza it connects to Barcelona and the rest of the mediterranean coast. The A1 connects to Burgos and onwards to Madrid.

The airport is at Logrono which has mainly domestic flights but is developing its international tourist flights. The are major airports at Bilbao, San Sebastian and Vitoria.

There are some 1600km of surfaced roads for getting around Rioja without the pressure most of us are used to.